Short answerGE lists four main causes for an oven that won't heat: a bad heating element, a faulty igniter, a damaged thermostat or sensor, or an oven that needs calibration. Before testing parts, rule out Sabbath mode, control lock and demo mode — they can look exactly like a broken oven. In electric ovens the bake element is the usual suspect; in gas ovens it's a weak igniter.
Time and difficulty are typical, estimated values.
Quick checks (no tools)
- Check the breaker or fuse (Whirlpool, LG).
- Check for Sabbath mode. GE: some models show the clock but no temperature or oven function in Sabbath mode.
- Check control lock and demo mode (Whirlpool, Samsung). Demo mode lights up the controls but doesn't heat.
- Close the door fully. Maytag: an open door or a broken door sensor can stop the oven reaching temperature.
- Know the normal preheat time. About 12–15 minutes to 350°F (Whirlpool). Unused racks make it longer.
- Gas ovens: watch the igniter. Open the door and look for a red glow. The burner should light within 30–90 seconds (GE). After a power outage, gas ovens can't light until power returns.
- Reset the control. Samsung: breaker off for 30 seconds.
- Heats but runs cool? Calibrate it: Whirlpool adjusts in 10°F steps; Samsung allows ±35°F.
Likely causes
| Part | Oven type | Symptom | How to test | DIY difficulty |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bake element | Electric | No heat on bake; element doesn't glow; visible blister or break | Continuity with a multimeter; none = replace | Easy–Moderate |
| Oven igniter | Gas | Igniter glows but no flame, or long delay | If it glows over 90 s without lighting the gas, it's too weak to open the valve | Moderate |
| Broil element | Electric | No broil; some ovens also use it to preheat | Continuity, like the bake element | Easy–Moderate |
| Temperature sensor | Both | Too hot or too cold; GE F3/F4 | About 1,080–1,100 Ω at room temperature on most common sensors — check your tech sheet | Easy |
| Thermal fuse | Both | Oven completely dead on bake and broil | Continuity; find out what overheated | Moderate |
| Relay / control board | Both | Element tests good but gets no voltage | Live-voltage test (pro) | Hard |
| Gas safety valve | Gas | Strong igniter, but no gas flows | — | Pro only |
↔ Swipe the table sideways to see all columns
Each row links to the part category: «Shop bake elements», «Shop oven igniters»…
Electric vs gas
- Electric: bake or broil element, sensor, relay board, thermal fuse.
- Gas: a weak igniter is the classic cause — it must draw enough current to open the safety valve, so a glowing igniter can still be bad. Also check gas supply and pressure (Samsung).
Brand notes and codes
- GE: F3 / F4 usually mean the oven sensor needs replacing — see GE error codes. Sabbath mode shows a backwards "C".
- Whirlpool / Maytag / KitchenAid: F3E0 = oven sensor, control or wiring — see Whirlpool error codes. The tech sheet gives about 1,000–1,200 Ω at room temperature.
- LG: F-9 = oven not heating properly (element, relay or board) — see LG error codes. Press CLEAR/OFF or reset the breaker.
- Samsung: check door, demo mode (tESt) and gas pressure; C-20 / C-22 = sensor — see Samsung error codes.
- Frigidaire: F10 = higher-than-normal temperature (safety alert); F30 / F31 = sensor open or shorted — see Frigidaire error codes.
Common mistakes
- Assuming a glowing igniter is good. Time it: over 90 seconds without flame = weak.
- Testing the sensor while the oven is still hot.
- Forgetting Sabbath mode, control lock or demo mode after a power outage.
- Replacing a thermal fuse without finding what overheated.
- Covering the oven bottom with foil — Whirlpool warns it blocks airflow.
Find the right part
GE: behind the door on the front frame, under the control panel on front-control models, or on the frame inside the drawer. Whirlpool: oven frame or storage drawer frame. Gas and electric versions of the same series use different parts, and igniters differ in shape and connector, so match by model number, not by photo. → Model Number Locator.
When to call a pro
- Any work on the gas valve, gas line or regulator, or if you smell gas.
- Live-voltage tests on the control board.
- Units under warranty — Whirlpool warranty service is done only by authorized providers.